April 9, 1920

It is cold this morning. Passed through a school of fish and saw a French fishing smack that had been out for many weeks. Later we saw a whale spouting, the first sign of animal life since starting. They are having sports on the upper deck, races etc, and the laughter comes floating down. The ship’s log shows 382 miles traveled the last 24 hours. I am getting on fine! I asked our Belgian Stewardess to-day if she was tired and she said “oh no, you people are such a healthy lot.”

April 8, 1920

Early to-day a sail boat was sighted and any diversion like that on an ocean voyage soon creates excitement. It looks like a very frail craft to be out. Some of the party told stories of their ancestry that came over in sail boats and were two months in crossing. We thought of Columbus and his voyages of discovery, as we never did before. Some of our party are quite clever in propounding riddles and conundrums.

I am surprising myself with what alacrity I can mount to that upper berth, when I go to our state room to retire. It is a case of not “standing upon the order of our going but to go at once.” We feel the rock of the vessel more in dining room and state room, than above or on deck, but I never feel sick when lying down. The getting up in the morning is a little more formal. First upon awaking, we eat an orange and munch a sea-cracker and lie there and dread to begin the process. We muster courage, hang our little mirror in the port-hole window and arrange our hair. Usually we lie down again and think it over. The second stage is to get on our shoes and stockings - then another rest. The dressing is done in double-quick time and armed with storm coat and steamer rug we make a run for the deck and the air - then we are all right.

I am chairman of the committee for tonight’s entertainment, with Anna George of New York and Mrs. Harry Warner of Chicago as the other members. We have arranged for a solo first by Mrs. Teasdale, wife of the Senator from Wisconsin, to be followed by a talk by Major Lewis on the war. Major Lewis is a Britisher who won great distinction in the Dardanelles and was Knighted by the King. He was wounded and shell shocked. 1228 men were with him at the beginning of the engagement and only 237 came back. Next - is to be the District School with Martin Chuzzlewit (The Rev. Mr. Wightman) as school master. Miles Standish and other noted characters are among the pupils. I am to preside.

This has been a rather uncomfortable day. One of the kind when you are not exactly sick, but feel all “stirred up” like and you want to be real quiet.

My room-mates thought I was heroic because I insisted upon throwing off any imaginary discomfort, dressing fresh for dinner and presiding at the meeting to-night. We had a big crowd and fun was rampant.

Some of our fellow passengers are disgruntled ex-saloon keepers and their families going back to the old country where they can pursue their business unmolested. Others are Belgians and others in sympathy with them. We enter into no arguments but look pleasant and smile, and gradually the ice is melting and they begin to think that we are pleasant people after all.

April 7, 1920

Last night we changed our course a little, bearing northward toward Newfoundland and we soon noticed the rock of the boat. It rained during the night and this morning was still cloudy. A little “swell” was noticeable and there begins to be vacant places at the table. Still some believe with Embassador Choate “That it is better to have lunched and lost, than never to have lunched at all.”

It is suprising how soon we begin to pick up nautical terms on a sea voyage and talk like old travelers. And we are trying to learn some English terms and will try to remember that elevators are “lifts,” subways are “tubes,” a drug-store is a “chemist shop” and street-cars are “trams.”

The sun is coming out and the water is beautiful. The ship’s log says we traveled 400 miles yesterday. We have a stunt night in preparation - the crowd is divided according to birthdays etc. Made some pleasant acquaintances on board, and appreciate the library. One has such a delicious sense of idleness - just to sleep and eat and read and dream and rest - ready for the strenuous days that we know are ahead.

Can we ever forget the stunts! Mr. E. N. Grimes a bald headed farmer from Iowa, dressed to represent a May queen, and Mrs. Theressa Jenkins of Wyoming who recited a parody on Maud Muller.

A few images from the journal

From the cover of the journal.

A copy of Fannie's passport photo.

A sample page of the original journal. It took me a long time to re-type it all because the text is so faded on a lot of the pages.

Breakfast menu card from the ship. (I don't know why she cut that little slice out of it.)

The pamphlet listing the trip itinerary.

April 6, 1920

The day is perfect as a day in June, the sun bright and the sea calm. Slept fine and am lazy about stirring around. We have had a drill on 2nd. deck, with our Life-Savers. A freighter just passed and everybody was glad to see it. Had our pictures taken on upper deck. Had a pleasant visit with Senator and Mrs. Teasdale of Wisconsin who sit near me at table. After they reach England, they will travel independently. Had hoped to peek into the steerage but the Captain objects. Reason - all diseases on board usually break out there, and there might be danger of quarantine if anything should happen, and the whole party might be held up.

Everything is scrupulously clean. The bath steward spends all his time scrubbing, cleaning and scouring. The salt water baths are very exhilarating. We have automatic electric lights in the bath-room. When you enter and close the door, the lights come on, and go off when the door is open.

We have a lecture each day about the places we are to visit. I am still hoping, that somehow, we can go to Italy before returning. I long to see Naples, Venice and Rome. A wireless to-day says snow is raging in the middle west. Hope it does not overtake us. 380 miles traveled to-day. A little more than 1/3 of our journey over. We turn our watches on 33 minutes every night.

April 5, 1920

After a fine nights rest, an orange eaten before rising, an early turn on the deck and breakfast, we are enjoying our steamer chair. The wind is a little stronger to-day but the sea is calm and everybody on deck is reading, writing, visiting, crocheting and apparently having a good time. Children are jumping the rope, playing games and some of the little ones have “Kiddie-Cars.”

The program for this evening will be varied, with Mrs. Maud Perkins presiding. I, among others, am asked to perform.

The ship’s log says we have traveled 398 miles to-day. The Stewardess says there are no steps available for getting into my berth. I see where I must develop into an athelete.

April 4, 1920

A favourite pastime in early childhood, was to look at pictures in the school geography and any books that came to hand, and dream dreams of the strange peoples and scenes. Later the pictures were augmented by reading, and soon letters of travel and foreign pictures held first place in the choice of entertainment. Sometime in those early years, the decision was reached “I mean to go abroad myself, some day and see for myself.” As the years went by the decision was intensified and strengthened and grew with the years. The opportunity for the fulfillment of the life-dream did not come until 1920 - the occasion, the great World’s W.C.T.U. convention to be held in London in April, of that year.

The Penn. R.R. from Columbus, carried us to the great city of New York and the McAlpine Hotel, Broadway at 34th St. was our home while in the city, and Hessie Leyborne of Toledo our room-mate.

Only a few in our party of 86 had ever met until we reached New York. One afternoon we held a sort of “get acquainted” meeting, in the reception room at 156 - Fifth Ave. and formulated some plans of travel that each one might get all possible out of the trip. No one was to expect or depend upon another for assistance. When on board Ship, if sick, to call the Stewardess; when on land, each one was to feel free to come and go and explore as best suited the fancy. This proved a happy arrangement, for in this large parity many types were represented. There was the one who was always punctually one half hour late. Another with a great faculty for forgetting and losing things. And the usual number of who failed to read instructions carefully and had come on without properly attending to their passports. On the part of some, this necessitated much telegraphing, telephoning, and even trips to Washington before all were ready to sail.

Excitement ran high, and even until a few hours before starting we were not sure that all our party would secure passports, for the Belgian Minister in New York, had grown suddenly very indifferent and was slow to affix his signature and stamp, thus permitting us to visit Belgium. When he did affix the necessary vise, he added “Belgium does not want prohibition. If any of this party are known to talk prohibition, or scatter prohibition propaganda, the passport will be revoked.”

One of the questions on the blank given out by the Belgian Minister was - “Give the first name of your wife.” Naturally, the women did not answer it and were told in an emphatic manner that “Everybody knows the first name of your wife means the maiden name of your husband.”

Fortunately, I was among the number who completed all passport requirements by mail, before leaving home, but did my best, after reaching New York, to help the less fortunate secure theirs.

Among the crowd to join our party were four women from Japan, only two of whom spoke English. I was delegated to accompany one of them to an American bank where she exchanged some Japanese money for American, and I received a taste of the annoyances I would encounter later when I reached foreign countries and desired to change American money.

One of the Japanese ladies was Madame Yajima, 87 years old (the Pres. of Japan’s W.C.T.U.) who spoke no English and was taking her granddaughter (who had been attending an American college) with her as interpreter.

Finally, all details were arranged, and with our passports safely tucked away and our receipt from the Internal Revenue Collector (without either of which we could not have sailed) likewise safely guarded, we found ourselves on Saturday afternoon, April 3rd., 1920, at two o’clock at Pier #61 of the Red Star line, ready for passage on the Steamer Lapland.

We went aboard amid the confusion and bustle, and our baggage was taken to State room #356 where Miss Leyborne of Toledo, Mrs. Sarchet of Cambridge, Miss Hinman of Oberlin and myself, were to be companions.

By request of Mr. Wood the conductor of our party, we were aboard several hours before the hour set to sail.

It was a most beautiful day, clear and sunshiny, and although we were traveling by an English vessel that flew the Union Jack, Old Glory had her place of honor.

With intense interest we watched the last gang plank drawn in and the great cables loosened. With the first thrill of motion of the great sea-palace that was to carry us away more than 3000 miles over the deep blue sea, with our silk flag fluttering in the breeze, we felt ourselves moving out from shore and realized that we were going out as a stranger to a strange land and leaving the greater part of our heart behind.

Soon we would be looked upon as foreigners by our neighbors across the sea. Our first dinner on board was greatly enjoyed for we were hungry, but a light repast was made to suffice for fear of sea-sickness. A walk on deck, some visits from friends, and we were safely tucked into our little bed, berth #3 (an upper berth) high up with no steps to ascend or descend, but with a big port hole, overlooking the water just by.

A fine nights rest and we woke to find a calm sea and realized that it was the glad Easter day. Soon we were dressed and on deck again. By this time we found all our Steamer chairs arranged and marked and our party of 86 were put together. Mrs. Cottingham of Columbus, read the beautiful Easter lesson and we sang Blest be the Tie and Throw out the Life-line etc. A beautiful service was held in the dining room at 10-30 conducted by a Pres. minister on board. At intervals, some very appropriate selections were given on deck - “Glad Easter Morn”- “Flander’s Fields” etc.

We neglected to speak of the piles and piles of Steamer letters from good friends that we found waiting when we came on board. Surely if good wishes can influence our voyage, it will be one of calm deep joy. These bring to mind the good-bye meeting held at Troy mid-year just before leaving Ohio, when such fervent prayers were offered for our safe return and all joined hands and feelingly sang, “God be with you till we meet again.”

We have a steady boat and the sea is running smooth, Everybody is bright and happy. Well, we have had lunch. Wish I could give a picture of the dining room, the flowers, the linen, the silver, the uniformed waters, and the hundreds of passengers from everywhere. Meals are served in courses, with much formality. To-day a little boy who sits opposite me at table and son of a Cong. minister, said - “Mother I am through lunch and I have four forks left.”

At the above mentioned meal each had 5 knives, 5 forks, 5 spoons, etc. They serve wonderful meals. It is hard to be temperate in eating when such a variety of good things are offered and in such a tempting manner. Then at four o’clock comes tea, which if you do not care to go down to the dining room, will be served to you on deck.

There are many kinds and classes of people represented on board, among them the proverbial bride and groom who attract much attention.

Some one told us that sea-sickness was caused by the vibrations in the inner ear etc. and that if we filled our ears with gauze, we would be immune from sea-sickness. Every woman is wearing gauze in her ears. It must work, the first day has passed and nobody is sick.

We are told there is a real live Lord from England on board! He is possibly some innocent, irresponsible little creature.

The evening Easter service in the dining room will long be remembered. The decorations, were American flags and flowers. A Perfect Day, Spring Song etc., played softly. Songs, Scripture reading, prayer and address by the Rev. Mr. Pierce of Indiana and others.